The North East Marsh – Stories from the Paul Street Area.
Written by Dr Kieran McCarthy.
To the north east of the former medieval walled town district ly the historical streets of Cork such as Cornmarket Street, Paul Street and Emmet Place. This district developed from the early seventeenth century onwards. It once hosted the "Walkabout" fortification to eventually becoming the centre of trade in the early eighteenth century with the primary custom house being located there. It was to become a centre of innovation and ambition.
Eighteenth-century maps of Cork show the development of streets and formal quaysides being constructed upon the north east marsh. In particular the marsh became a significant area of development for the Huguenot congregation in Cork. By the eighteenth century in Cork, over three hundred Huguenots had established themselves in Cork city. Many of them worked as trade peoples especially in the textile industry and in the manufacture of linen and silk.
The Huguenots were also involved in property development and one of the first Huguenot families to develop property was Joseph Lavitt whose family were primarily involved in overseas trade and sugar refining. Lavitt’s Quay was constructed in 1704 and echoes the Huguenot’s past presence in the area. The areas of present day French Church Street, Carey’s Lane and Academy Street in the city centre today are located at the core of the Huguenot quarter.
The surviving portion of the Huguenot burial ground has been preserved as a tribute to the Huguenots who made an important contribution to the life of Cork. It was acquired by Cork City Council in 2007 and transformed into a memorial garden during the following year.
Eighteenth century maps also emphasise St Paul’s Church as a prominent building and a catalyst for further construction in the area and streets such as Paul Street. Construction of St Paul's Church began on 11 May 1723. It was built by subscription of £1,897 by parishioners and land granted by the Corporation of Cork to Peter Brown, the Protestant Bishop of Cork, from 1709 to 1735. The church is now the retail premises of Fifty Degrees North as part of the TK Max retail complex with its unexcavated underground crypt and Italinate ceiling, beautiful remaining features.
In 1724, the Corporation of Cork decided that the old Custom House was too small to accommodate the extent of municipal trade. It was located at the eastern tip of the island of the north east marsh. A new brick building in 1724 replaced that Custom House and was constructed at the expense of the English Parliament. It was surrounded by a “small harbour, a good quay with cranes and all proper conveniences for loading goods and close to the north channel of the river” . The historic building is now part of the Crawford Art Gallery
The older Roman Catholic Church known as Carey’s Lane Chapel was erected in 1786. The portion or the old church was used in the building of the present sacristy of SS Peter’s and Paul’s Church.
Plans for what is now the present day SS Peter and Paul’s Church, which replaced the Carey’s Lane chapel, were initially were proposed in the 1820s. The first stone of the Church of SS. Peter & Paul was laid on the Feast of the Assumption, 1859. With designs by Edward Welby Pugin, the architect created a structure full of interesting details. From the use of marble in pillars to the wooden carvings of angels and the confessional boxes, many details are quite striking. They were supported by Parish Priest Fr John Murphy.
The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage notes the adjacent SS Peter and Paul’s Infant School very ornate building and former school was built in 1879-81 as part of an interesting pair – the other being a presbytery - with the adjoining building to the east. The contractor was John Delaney and when the school opened in 1881 it was to host over 740 pupils.
Today the past still echoes with innovation and ambition. In more recent decades, on 11 June 1985, Paul Street Shopping Centre was officially opened by Lord Mayor of Cork Alderman Liam Burke. The Developers, O'Callaghan Properties Ltd, sought to help re-vitalise the city centre by providing more and better car parking facilities and by doubling the amount of food retail space in major stores in the city centre. One hundred and fifty jobs were created during the construction period and 200 new permanent jobs created in the complex itself.
Apart from the supermarket, the seventh Quinnsworth store to be built in the Cork area, the development also comprised 14 smaller, retail units and a first floor restaurant.
The new centre was compared with the Pompidou centre in Paris. In fact the interior design work was carried out by a Frenchman, Gerrard Lacour. The five storey 850 space car park was officially opened in June 1984 and was the city’s first multi-storey car park.
In 1997 Paul Street Plaza was renamed Rory Gallagher Place and a memorial sculpture to Rory’s memory was unveiled. The sculpture, by Geraldine Creedon, has a guitar on one side, while the other side contains interwoven lyrics from Rory's Jinx album.
Find out more on Paul’s Street’s rich history at www.corkheritage.ie
